BEAUTY DOSSIER

Taking Care of Your Skin Barrier

BECAUSE HEALTHY SKIN IS SKIN WITH A BALANCED PH, YOU NEED TO TAKE GREAT CARE OF ITS PROTECTIVE ACID MANTLE

Why is it important to respect the skin’s pH? Because healthy skin is skin with a balanced pH. The acid mantle plays a vital role in the quality and texture of the skin. It must be cared for so it does not become unbalanced.

More than 90% of skin conditions can be attributed to a weakened skin barrier, the skin’s natural immune system responsible for defending against pollution, UV light, infection, and locking in moisture.

Your skin is home to trillions of microbes (bacteria) that perform a symbiotic function on our skin barrier, helping maintain pH balance and protect the skin. It is estimated that 26% of the trillions of bacteria that make up our microbiome are found in our gut, while 21% are found on our skin.

THE SKIN’S PH

The acid mantle is the skin’s protective barrier made up of a thin film of sebum, sweat, and dead skin cells. This barrier is naturally slightly acidic (hence its name), which means its pH is below 7 (neutral pH). It generally sits around 5.5, allowing the skin to function normally and fight off external aggressors and toxins, which have an alkaline pH.

This acid mantle therefore provides protection at the skin’s surface and prevents the growth of harmful bacteria while retaining moisture and nutrients.

This acid mantle can sometimes become slightly altered: if it becomes too acidic (dry skin) or too alkaline (oily skin), it leads to dysfunctions such as sensitivity, irritation, and blemishes. Most skin problems occur when this acid mantle is out of balance.

Blemish-prone skin generally has a pH around 7, which is not able to neutralize bacteria. On the contrary, a pH below 5.5 makes it difficult for bacteria to proliferate.

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR SKIN’S PH?

The skin’s acid mantle can be damaged by many factors: sun, wind, pollution, diet, stress... but also by using products that are too harsh and stripping for the skin.

Since the skin’s pH is essential for a healthy, radiant complexion, here are our tips for taking care of your acid mantle:

• Your cosmetics should respect your acid mantle, with pH levels around 5.5.

• Avoid overly hot showers, as heat destroys the acid mantle.

• Avoid harsh ingredients such as alcohol, soap, fragrance, emulsifiers, and synthetic ingredients. This is why it is important to choose natural skincare.

• Simplify your routine, as too many successive layers of different actives can damage the skin barrier.

THE RIGHT ROUTINE AND REPAIRING INGREDIENTS

CLEANSERS

The most important pH is that of cleansers. Most cleansers have a pH above 7 and will damage the skin’s acid mantle. The skin becomes irritated and will produce even more sebum. It will be unable to protect and rebalance itself, and breakouts will appear. That is why harsh, stripping cleansers only make acne worse. Some brands also offer very acidic toners to counterbalance overly alkaline cleansers. This wide pH swing irritates the skin even more and makes it unable to self-regulate. The ideal is to choose a cleanser and a toner that are slightly more acidic than 5.5. A pH between 4.5 and 5.5 is optimal for regulating skin health and strengthening the microbiome.

MARA Universal Face Oil

SKINCARE

The creator of Gentlerist tells us that technically, pH only refers to water-based formulations because it measures the concentration of hydrogen ions in an aqueous solution. It is therefore scientifically inaccurate to indicate the pH of oils or oil-based preparations, although when tested with similar instruments, most plant oils have a slightly acidic pH that supports skin health. A healthy skin barrier is mainly made up of lipids and three crucial elements: ceramides, cholesterol, and essential fatty acids. You should prioritize oils and creams containing these actives if your skin barrier is impaired:

EXFOLIATION

No more than 2 to 3 times per week for mechanical exfoliation, which should not damage the acid mantle. Choose enzymatic exfoliation, to be done in the evening so the acid mantle can rebuild overnight:

SUPPLEMENTS

The Super Elixir - WELLECO fights free radical damage, making the skin radiant and boosting natural collagen production.

WELLECO The Super Elixir Green Refill

AN EXAMPLE OF AN EVENING ROUTINE

To allow the skin to benefit from active ingredients without compromising the acid mantle, I recommend rotating actives every evening and taking breaks.

Every evening: double cleanse + an essence

TUESDAY & SUNDAY

Use an acid:

• Flower Acid Algae Serum - MARA

• Holi (Bright) Resurface Glass Face Mask - AGENT NATEUR

MONDAY, WEDNESDAY & FRIDAY

Apply a Retinol treatment:

• Retinol Night Face Oil - MARA

• Renewing Serum - Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid - ODACITE

THURSDAY & SATURDAY

Take a break:

• The Balm - Soapwalla