Exfoliating acids and retinol are valuable allies for healthy skin, provided they are used appropriately.
Exfoliating acids and retinol are extraordinary ingredients for the skin. Exfoliation makes the skin's texture smoother and more even. It helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, prevent blemishes, and give the skin a radiant glow. The benefits of retinol, considered the Swiss Army knife of cosmetics, are countless. It increases the production of new cells, unclogs pores, exfoliates, and stimulates collagen production to combat the formation and appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
All these advantages make them wonderful, multi-functional products, addressing most skin concerns. However, with these two ingredients, too much of a good thing can be bad. To use them correctly and wisely, you must first know your skin type, use the appropriate products, and avoid over-exfoliation or too frequent application of retinol, as this can have the opposite effect of what you're hoping for.
A QUICK REMINDER
Exfoliation: The primary purpose of exfoliation is to rid the skin of dead cells accumulated on its surface (and sometimes inside the pores). Removing these dead cells stimulates cell renewal, resulting in a healthier, smoother skin texture.
See the file: EXFOLIATION
Retinol: Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A known to help increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. It helps improve the appearance of skin tone and texture, reduce dark spots, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can also be used to reduce blemishes and acne.
See the file: RETINOL
THE RISKS
Over-exfoliation, as the name suggests, refers to excessive exfoliation. This can be caused by applying too much scrubbing product, exfoliating too frequently, or using a mechanical or chemical exfoliant that is too harsh for your skin type.
REDNESS
Whether you're prone to redness or it's just occasional, redness is a clear sign of excessive exfoliation. Redness on your skin is a warning signal; your skin is telling you that something isn't right for it.
IRRITATION
Some enzymatic exfoliants may cause a slight tingling sensation; this is perfectly normal and simply indicates that the product is working. However, if you choose an unsuitable or overly harsh chemical exfoliant, a burning sensation may occur. If the process is painful and stings, this may indicate that your face has been over-exfoliated and is too sensitive, or that your product is not suitable for your skin type.
DROUGHT
Daily dryness can be caused by excessive exfoliation. If your face or even your body has unusual dry patches, or if your complexion is drier than usual, this could be due to damage to your skin barrier caused by exfoliation. No longer performing its protective function, it allows the skin to become dehydrated.
SKIN RASHES
Exfoliation can be extremely beneficial against acne. In this specific case, we recommend enzymatic exfoliants based on AHA or BHA acids. However, excessive exfoliation can dry out your skin, causing it to produce more sebum to compensate for this dryness and consequently leading to breakouts. Increased sebum production is one of the main factors contributing to the formation of acne.
Excessive application of retinol can make the skin extremely dry or flaky and cause irritation and burning, especially where the skin is thinnest, such as around the mouth and eyes. This irritation can last for a few days.
HOW MUCH SHOULD BE APPLIED AND HOW OFTEN?
EXFOLIANT | 2 times a week
We recommend exfoliating twice a week. This can be done using a grainy cleanser, a mask, or a serum applied at night.
RETINOL | 2 to 3 times a week
Although retinol can be used every night, we recommend using it only a few times a week to ensure it's well tolerated. As you continue using it, you can increase the frequency depending on your tolerance. With retinol, the lower the concentration and the less frequently you apply it, the more effective it will be over time. Start slowly and increase gradually—that's the key!
To prevent side effects, you can take a few precautions: Protect areas of the face most prone to irritation, such as around the eyes, the sides of the nose, and the mouth, with a balm like Egyptian Magic Cream . Another tip to avoid irritation is to use the sandwich technique. Apply your retinol or acid over a hyaluronic acid-rich serum and under an oil. This will limit the absorption of the active ingredients and therefore the risk of irritation.
In both cases, these two ingredients should only be used in the evening. Also, be very careful to apply sunscreen the next day, as exfoliation and retinol make the skin more sensitive to the sun.
Never use an exfoliator and retinol together in the same evening. The best routine is to alternate them. This is called Skin Cycling.
See the file: SKIN CYCLING
HOW TO REPAIR OVEREXFOLIATED SKIN OR THE SIDE EFFECTS OF RETINOL?
Stop exfoliating and using retinol immediately to allow your skin barrier time to rebuild. Simplify your routine by eliminating all overly active ingredients. Adopt a less aggressive approach by taking care of your skin barrier and using gentle products specifically formulated for irritated and sensitive skin. Choose soothing, restorative ingredients like calendula. This typically takes about three days.
Certain ingredients can also accelerate the skin's repair process. Natural hyaluronic acid will restore and soothe your complexion. The adaptogenic mushroom Reishi calms irritations by nourishing the skin barrier.
WHICH PRODUCTS ARE RIGHT FOR MY SKIN?
DRY SKIN
OILY & BLEMISHED SKIN
MATURE SKIN
THE SANDWICH METHOD TO BENEFIT FROM RETINOL WITHOUT IRRITATION
The sandwich method involves "framing" your retinol treatment between two layers of moisturizer, like a sandwich. This technique significantly reduces potential side effects (redness, peeling, irritation) while preserving the effectiveness of the retinol.
STEP BY STEP: THE PERFECT RITUAL
THE FIRST LAYER
Protective hydration: After cleansing your skin, apply a thin layer of moisturizing cream.
RETINOL
The star ingredient: Wait 1 minute, then apply your retinol treatment. A small amount is enough.
THE FINISHING TOUCH
The protective cocoon. Wait another minute, then finish with a second layer of moisturizer or oil to "seal" everything in.
EXPERT ADVICE
Start with a plant-based retinol. Begin with 1-2 applications per week. Gradually increase the frequency as your skin adapts. Always pay attention to your skin's response and adjust your routine accordingly for optimal results.
Always apply only in the evening, as this is when the skin renews itself. Don't forget sunscreen the next day, as cell renewal increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun. Avoid combining this product with AHA/BHA products on the same evening.
See our dossier: ASSET COCKTAIL
RESULTS & BENEFITS
This method is particularly recommended for sensitive skin, skin that has difficulty tolerating retinol-based products, or for those new to retinol use. It allows for a gentle introduction of this powerful active ingredient into your skincare routine. With the sandwich method, you should notice:
- IMPROVED SKIN TOLERANCE
- LESS IRRITATION AND REDNESS
- MORE COMFORTABLE SKIN
- PROGRESSIVE BUT VISIBLE ANTI-AGING RESULTS
Remember that patience is key: the first results generally appear after two cell renewal cycles, which is about two months. By following this sandwich technique, you can finally enjoy the anti-aging benefits of retinol while preserving your skin's comfort.