EXFOLIATING ACIDS AND RETINOL ARE PRECIOUS ALLIES FOR SKIN HEALTH, PROVIDED THEY ARE USED APPROPRIATELY....
Exfoliating acids and Retinol are extraordinary ingredients for the skin. Thanks to exfoliation, skin texture becomes smoother and more even. It helps limit the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, prevent blemishes, and boost radiance. The benefits of retinol are countless, and it is considered the Swiss army knife of cosmetics. It increases the production of new cells, unclogs pores, exfoliates, and stimulates collagen production to combat the formation and appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
All these benefits make them wonderful and multifunctional products, addressing most skin concerns. But for these 2 ingredients, too much of a good thing can be harmful. To use them correctly and wisely, you first need to know your skin type well, use suitable products, and avoid over-exfoliation or applying retinol too frequently so as not to cause the opposite of what you are hoping for.
A QUICK REMINDER
Exfoliation: The primary purpose of exfoliation is to rid the skin of dead cells accumulated on its surface (and sometimes inside the pores). Removing these dead cells stimulates cell renewal and therefore leads to the appearance of healthier, smoother skin texture.
See the feature: EXFOLIATION
Retinol: Retinol is a vitamin A derivative known to help increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. It helps improve the appearance of skin tone and texture, fade dark spots, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can also be used to reduce blemishes and acne.
See the feature: RETINOL
THE RISKS
As the name suggests, over-exfoliation refers to excessive exfoliation. This can be caused by using a grain scrub too aggressively, exfoliating too frequently, or using a mechanical or chemical exfoliant that is too strong for your skin type.
REDNESS
Whether you are prone to redness or it appears occasionally, redness is an obvious sign of excessive exfoliation. Redness on your skin is a warning signal: your skin is telling you that something is not suiting it.
IRRITATION
Some enzymatic exfoliants may cause a slight tingling sensation, which is perfectly normal and simply indicates that the product is working. However, if you choose an unsuitable or overly strong chemical exfoliant, a burning sensation may appear. If the process is painful and stings, it may indicate that your face is over-exfoliated and overly sensitized, or that your product is not suitable for your skin type.
DRYNESS
Daily dryness may be caused by excessive exfoliation. If your face or even your body shows unusual dry patches or if your complexion feels drier than usual, this may be due to damage to your skin barrier caused by exfoliation. No longer able to perform its protective role properly, it allows the skin to become dehydrated.
SKIN BREAKOUTS
Exfoliation can be extremely beneficial for acne. In this specific case, we recommend enzymatic exfoliants based on AHA or BHA acids. But conversely, overly excessive exfoliation may dry out your skin and therefore make it produce more sebum to compensate for this dryness, consequently creating skin breakouts. Increased sebum production is one of the main factors contributing to acne formation.
Excessive retinol application can make the skin extremely dry or flaky and cause irritation and burning, especially where the skin is thinnest, such as around the mouth and eyes. These irritations can last for several days.
HOW MUCH SHOULD YOU APPLY AND HOW OFTEN?
EXFOLIANT | 2 times a week
We recommend exfoliating twice a week. This can be done using a scrub cleanser, a mask, or a serum applied at night.
RETINOL | 2 to 3 times a week
Although retinol can be used every evening, we advise using it only a few times a week to make sure it is well tolerated. As applications progress, you can increase the frequency depending on your tolerance. With retinol, the lower the concentration and the more spaced out the application, the more effective it will be over time. Start gently and increase slowly—that is the secret.
To prevent side effects, you can take a few precautions: protect the areas of the face most prone to irritation, such as the eye contour, the sides of the nose, and the mouth, using a balm such as Egyptian Magic Cream. Another tip to avoid irritation is to use the sandwich technique. Apply your retinol or acid over a serum rich in hyaluronic acid and under an oil. This will limit the absorption of the active ingredients and therefore the risk of irritation.
In both cases, these 2 ingredients should only be used at night. Also be very careful to apply sunscreen the next day because exfoliation and retinol make the skin more sensitive to the sun.
Never combine exfoliant and retinol on the same evening. The best routine is to alternate them. This is what is called Skin Cycling.
See the feature: SKIN CYCLING
HOW DO YOU REPAIR OVER-EXFOLIATED SKIN OR RETINOL SIDE EFFECTS?
Stop exfoliation and retinol immediately to give the skin barrier time to rebuild itself. Simplify your routine by eliminating all overly active ingredients. Adopt a less “aggressive” approach by taking care of your skin barrier and using gentle products specifically designed for irritated and sensitive skin. Choose soothing, restorative ingredients such as calendula. In general, this takes an average of 3 days.
Some ingredients can also speed up the skin repair process. Natural hyaluronic acid will restore and soothe your complexion. The adaptogenic mushroom Reishi soothes irritation by nourishing the skin barrier.
WHICH PRODUCTS ARE RIGHT FOR MY SKIN?
DRY SKIN
OILY & BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN
MATURE SKIN
THE SANDWICH METHOD TO ENJOY RETINOL WITHOUT IRRITATION
The sandwich method consists of “framing” your retinol treatment between two layers of hydration, like a sandwich. This technique helps significantly reduce potential side effects (redness, flaking, irritation) while preserving retinol’s effectiveness.
STEP BY STEP: THE PERFECT RITUAL
THE FIRST LAYER
Protective hydration After cleansing your skin, apply a thin layer of moisturizer.
RETINOL
The star active ingredient Wait 1 minute, then apply your retinol treatment. A small amount is enough.
THE FINAL TOUCH
The protective cocoon Wait another 1 minute, then finish with a second layer of moisturizer or oil to “seal” everything in.
EXPERT TIPS
Start with a plant-based retinol. Begin with 1-2 applications per week. Gradually increase the frequency as your skin adapts. Always stay attentive to your skin’s response and adjust your routine accordingly for optimal results.
Always apply it at night only because skin renews itself overnight. Do not forget sun protection the next day because cell renewal increases the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Avoid combining it with AHAs/BHAs on the same evening.
See our feature: ACTIVE INGREDIENT COCKTAIL
RESULTS & BENEFITS
This method is particularly recommended for sensitive skin, those who struggle to tolerate retinol-based products, or beginners using retinol. It allows a gentle introduction of this powerful active ingredient into your skincare routine. With the sandwich method, you should notice:
- BETTER SKIN TOLERANCE
- LESS IRRITATION AND REDNESS
- MORE COMFORTABLE SKIN
- PROGRESSIVE BUT VISIBLE ANTI-AGING RESULTS
Do not forget that patience is key: the first results generally appear after 2 cell renewal cycles, that is to say: 2 months. By following this sandwich technique, you will finally be able to enjoy the anti-aging benefits of retinol while preserving your skin’s comfort.